Project Karate Monkey

Posted on August 3, 2010 by Jeff Moser

I had the opportunity to ride my wife’s On One 29er single speed for an extended period of time. It was the funnest bike I had ever ridden, but with a 16″ frame, it was just a little too small for me. Not having any extra cash for a long time, I had plenty of time to think about the bike I’d like to build some day.

Karate Monkey frame Out of the Box

I had entertained the idea of a Salsa El Mariachi, but when I was ready to start shopping seriously, Salsa temporarily stopped production on the line as they are introducing a redesigned model. Another brand I was considering was the Vassago. They have two frames, the JabberWocky and the BanderSnatch, one is a single speed, the other is setup to run gears. Not wanting to tie myself to one discipline, the choice became clear. Especially when I started comparing frame geometry numbers and finding that the bikes I was interested in were all very similar in comparison.

Karate Monkey rear dropout – ready for single speed or a derailleur, disc brakes, and a cargo rack

I’ve long wanted a Surly. Surly is an interesting company. While some companies hastily work on making their last year’s models obsolete, Surly is putting out ordinary, familiar looking bike frames. Their bikes frames are affordable, simple and practical, and often come with demeaning or silly names to describe the color of their bikes. Beef Gravy Brown. Curry Squirt. Tar Pit Black. Underneath the low tech, indifferent image though, are bikes that are actually pretty well thought out and ride great. Surly has even put out a few bikes that have become the standard by which other bikes are judged like the Big Dummy cargo bike and the Pugsley that is designed for snow and sand.

Truvativ Stylo OCT light weight crank set and bottom bracket

Dan Turner at the Bicycle Authority has a few Surlys of his own, so I had plenty of opportunities to see the bikes in person and pick his brain for the details. Since I’d be building a 29er, I finally decided on Surly’s Karate Monkey. I looked at many photos of Karate Monkeys around the Internet to get some ideas, and talked myself into ordering a black frame. Shortly after ordering though, Dan informed me that black wouldn’t be available for a few months. “Chum Bucket Red” it would be. Or as Dan likes to call it, “Scum Bucket Red”. I still haven’t decided which name if more offensive.

Karate Monkey with On One single speed wheelset

The Karate Monkey is offered as a complete bike from Surly, but I decided to go with just the frame and fork, since the complete is built with too many parts that I would want to change. Ordering just the frame gave me the luxury of building the bike just like I wanted. I started a log book of all the parts I collected and wanted to get, and even recorded all the weights. This made shopping for parts a easier, as I could decide if the performance payoff was worth the extra money. Some parts were just too expensive with very little weight difference where it mattered. I focused the money on the parts that would give me the most bang for the buck, like the cranks and wheels.

Surly Tuggnut chain tensioner / bottle opener

WHAT IF YOU COULD ONLY HAVE ONE BIKE?

Here’s why I decided on the Karate Monkey. I asked myself the questions, “What if you could only have ONE bike? One bike to do it all. What bike would it be?” My bike is my primary source of transportation and recreation. I’m on my bike 5 and 6 days out of the week. Here is the criteria I used when building the bike:

Affordable – Together, the Karate Monkey frame and fork retail for about $465. This leaves a lot of extra cash for other parts. Money was focused on parts that reduced rotating mass, the wheels and the cranks.
29 Inch Wheels – The larger diameter 29 inch wheels really smooth out the trail. This allowed me to forgo suspension parts that require extra tuning and maintenance, and it saved me some weight. Most of the terrain I ride is smooth open and fast, and there has been little penalty for riding rigid. Additionally, the big wheels float over the sand better, corner better, climb and descend better, and they keep their momentum on the dirt and street.
Low Maintenance – The bike is setup with no suspension and only one gear. I went with mechanical disc brakes instead of hydraulics for easier tuning, maintenance, and repair. I focus primarily on tire pressure, lubing the chain, and tuning the brakes.
Comfortable – I didn’t build a race machine. I built a bike that can be ridden every day, sometimes for several hours at a time. I saved weight where it made sense, but took the weight penalty where it added comfort or pay offs in other areas; for example, the Titec J-Bars or the big volume WTB Wolverine front tire. The Karate Monkey’s steel frame also adds much to the comfort of the ride.
Efficient – Bicycles are one of the most efficient machines ever invented. I maxed this out on the Karate Monkey with the smooth single speed drivetrain and rigid frame. Very little energy is lost when pedaling without the complex chain path of a derailleur, and more pedaling energy is directed towards forward momentum without bouncy suspension components.
Versatile - The Karate Monkey frame has many options, and you can build it up anyway you want to. There are cantilever bosses with removable pivots if you want to run rim brakes, and disc mounts front and rear if you want to run disc brakes. There are dual water bottle mounts on the inside of the triangle (sometimes you get only one with other frame designs). The frame is setup for downtube shift cable routing, there are guides for hydraulic hose or solid housing on the seatstay, and standard cable housing stops on the top tube. There are mounts on the frame and fork for installing racks for touring or utility. Basically, you can build a Karate Monkey just about any way imaginable. I also decided to go with a standard wheelset over a single speed specific set. This way I can use the same wheelset for geared or single speed operation depending on what I decide to do down the road.
Reasonably Light Weight – The steel frame and fork are far from being the lightest available at 5.6lbs for my 18″ frame and 2.6 lbs for the fork; however, you will spend more than twice the price on a high end frame to save about a pound over the Karate Monkey. I chose to put the money into a light wheelset instead. It is said that 1 pound off the wheels is like 3 pounds off the frame. My complete bike is about 24.5 pounds. This makes it heavy for a race bike, but pretty light for an all around trail bike.
Fun to Ride – What good is a bike if it isn’t fun to ride? It’s the main reason we ride after all. A good mix of comfort and performance makes my Karate Monkey a blast to ride.

Surly 19 tooth cog and spacers

THE BUILD

Here’s the Karate Monkey’s current build:

Frame and Fork: 18″ Surly Karate Monkey frame and rigid fork – 100% Surly 4130 CroMoly steel
Headset: FSA Orbit X with sealed cartridge bearings
Bars: Titec “Jones” J-Bar with foam grips and bar tape (reviewed here on BikeCarson.com)
Stem: Generic stem with 4 bolts and 31.8mm clamp area
Brakes: Avid BB7 Mechanical disk brakes and levers, Shimano cables and housing
Saddle: WTB Laser V SLT (titanium rails)
Seatpost: Race Face Evolve XC
Seatpost Clamp: Surly Constrictor (included with frame)
Wheelset: Sun Ringle Black Flag Pro Wheelset with standard freewheel body (reviewed here on BikeCarson.com)
Tires: WTB 29×2.2 Wolverine (front – reviewed here on BikeCarson.com), WTB Nano Raptor 29×2.1 (rear), running Stan’s Tubeless kit
Crankset and Bottom Bracket: Truvativ Stylo OCT cranks with GXP bottom bracket
Pedals: Crank Brothers Egg Beater SL
Chain: SRAM PC890 8 speed chain
Rear Cog and Spacers: Surly 19 tooth cog and Surly spacer kit
Chain Tensioner: Surly Tuggnut chain tensioner/bottle opener
Water Bottle Cages – 2

Big 29″ Fat Tired Wheels

Dan Turner at the Bicycle Authority prepped the frame and installed the headset for me, an FSA Orbit X that he had in the shop and recommended. It has a look and weight similar to a Chris King, but at half the price. A Chris King was on the wish list, but not in the budget. I took the frame home where it sat for a few weeks as I collected parts. I had a few parts that weren’t in use, and new parts were bought with the sale proceeds of my Kona Coiler. I (temporarily) stole the wheels off my wife’s On One. Jeff Potter cut my steering tube down to size, and the bike was ready to ride!

Finished (for now) Karate Monkey on the morning commute in Mills Park

I loved the bike the way it was, but had to start thinking about getting my wife’s wheelset back to her. I saved some dough, and had Denis at the Bike Habitat order me the Sun Ringle Black Flag Pro wheelset. The On One wheelset had a 20 tooth BMX freewheel on it, but I couldn’t adjust the chain without slack. I went with a 19 tooth cog and spacer kit with the new wheelset, removed a link from the chain, and now I have good adjustment. The rear axle is near the front of the dropouts now, so I have room to drop a tooth or two on the front chain ring if I need lower gearing.

Karate Monkey in Ash Canyon above Carson City

Now that the bike is pretty much finished, it’s quite a bit different than I had originally envisioned it. It was going to be black with plenty of chrome. When the frame turned out to be red, I came up with a new color scheme. I wanted the black rims with gold hubs, but Sun Ringle had just the opposite in stock, gold rims with black hubs. In the end I have a red bike with gold wheels, but I love it! The bike has only spent a few nights in the garage and still spends most of its time in the living room when not being ridden. When I’m at work, it sits inches behind me in my cubicle. It’s a good commuter, it’s fun for fast paced lunch rides, and comfortable for all day epic rides. I rarely ride other bikes now.

Is the Karate Monkey perfect? Just about…for me. The decals seem a bit weak, but the paint job is holding up good and should look good for a long time. The only thing I can really nitpick is the method for removing the rear wheel. You have to loosen the rear brake calipers to get the wheel off. This can cost you a lot of extra time and hassle on the trail, and is a reason some of the other manufactures have a different design for their rear dropout. This is a small price to pay for such a versatile frame though. Especially if you seldom get flats.

Karate Monkey on the way to Star Lake

FUTURE IDEAS

Although I love the bike in its current form, I do think of other possibilities for down the road. The bike could be setup with some gears, skinny tires, and racks for bicycle touring. I’ve even thought about getting a Pugsley fork and front wheel to make it into a snow bike for winter.

MORE KARATE MONKEY BITS

There is a good collection of different Karate Monkey builds out on the Surly Karate Monkey Junkie Flickr photo group if you are looking for some build ideas.

Curious about the origins of the name Karate Monkey? Here’s one possibility, Karate Monkey by Chubby Checker. Catchy, ain’t it?

Sun Ringle Black Flag Pro 29er Review – Out of the Box

Posted on July 19, 2010 by Jeff Moser

I needed a new wheelset for my Surly Karate Monkey build, so I started looking around at all the high end hubs and rims available. I’ve noticed a lot of Stan’s NoTube rims showing up on bikes, and I even had the opportunity to change a flat tube on a Stan’s Rim. I was really impressed at how tight the seal was, and thought it would make a great tubeless rim. I decided to consult Guitar Ted, the primary writer of the Twenty Nine Inches website, as he’s tested just about all the 29er parts available.

Out of the Box

I told Guitar Ted about my interest in the Stan’s NoTube Rims, and he recommend I check out the Sun Ringle Black Flag Pro 29er wheelset, the company’s high end offering. Sun Ringle manufacturers the rims for Stan’s, and Stan’s has licensed the NoTubes design for the Black Flag rims. I couldn’t find a whole lot of information on the sealed bearing hubs, but I like the straight pull spoke design (no bend in the spoke where it joins the hub), and the weight of the wheelset was just in the range I was looking for.

Extras included in the box

I sent Denis at the Bike Habitat an email to see what he thought about the wheels, and when I got back from lunch, he replied that the wheels were on their way! I had originally wanted the black rims with the gold hubs, but these were not currently available. I ended up getting the opposite color, gold rims with the black hubs. As it turns out, they look great with the dark red of the bike frame.

Standard 6-bolt Disc Mount and Straight Pull Spokes

Here are the Product Specs:

Stan’s NoTubes™ BST Technology (w/Rim Tape)
24mm Rim Width
Premium, Cartridge Bearing, Straight-Pull Hubs
Quick Release, QR15, 20mm Thru-Axle Front Axle Options
Quick Release, 135×12, 142×12 Rear Axle Options
Wheelsmith Straight-Pull, Double-Butted Spokes, Laced 3-cross
Wheelsmith Alloy Nipples
28 / 28 Hole Count
Cro-moly Skewers
830 grams front, 940 grams rear, 1770 grams for the set (weighed on my scale without skewers or brake discs)
$650 MSRP

Freewheel Body

What I really like about this wheelset is that it includes everything you need to get it going. Tubeless ready means just that. The rim tape is designed for tubeless installation, two tubeless valve stems are included, and it even comes with enough Stan’s NoTube sealant to complete both wheels. Also included are Sun Ringle chromoly skewers, and adapters to run various axle sizes. I didn’t pop out the axle size converters, since they came setup just the way I wanted; however, you can check out BikeRumor.com for some good detail photos of how they work.

Black Flag

Weight for the wheelset came in just a bit higher than advertised, but at 1,770 grams, it’s right on target for similar wheels in this price range. The Black Flags are a full pound lighter than the On One wheelset I had borrowed off another bike, and the rim width is slightly wider too. The rim’s Bead Socket Technology (BST) creates a rim with a shorter sidewall which allows the rim to be lighter, lets you to run lower pressures, and allows the tire to use more of its sidewall and have a larger volume. Much more detail about BST can be found on the Stan’s NoTube site HERE.

29er

Licensed by Stan’s NoTubes

Mounting and inflating the tires was a snap. My favorite WTB non-tubeless tires mounted easily on the rims. Before we put the last bit of bead on the rim, we filled the tire with the supplied sealant. Then we popped the last of the bead onto the rim, and inflated the tire with an air compressor. Both tires sealed up so easy that I suspect a regular hand pump would have worked too. I shook the wheels around to disperse the sealant around the tire, and then mounted the wheels on the bike. Both tires have been holding air extremely well ever since.

Tubeless Ready Rim Strip

The finished product installed on the Karate Monkey

The gold wheels look great with the red paint on my bike, and really make the bike look sharp. The next step of course will be to get these wheels tested out on the trail! It will almost be a shame to get these beautiful wheels dirty. Almost… Stay tuned!

Marin Bikes Demo Report

Posted on June 22, 2010 by Jeff Moser

On June 18th, the Bike Habitat hosted an evening with Marin Bikes up in Ash Canyon. Marin Bikes was in the area for the 2010 Tour de Nez, and made their first stop here in Carson City en route to the Reno events. They brought their demo van full of an assortment of Marin bikes for us to demo on our trails, and it was a great opportunity for people to try out the various styles of mountain bikes to see what best suited their style.

Marin Bike Demo, Ash Canyon

According to their website, Marin Bikes was established in 1986 in San Anselmo, California and celebrates its 24th anniversary this year. Its offices lie in the shadow of Mt. Tamalpais, commonly referred to as the birthplace of mountain biking and still at the heart of the sport. In other words, they’re no spring chickens when it comes to mountain bikes.

Lester getting ready to test the Alpine Trail 29er.

I’m a big fan of 29ers, and would have liked to give one of the Marin 29ers a try; however, I had my eye on one of their other bikes for my demo ride. Still, I took some time to look at their entry level 29er hardtail, the Alpine Trail. For riders on a tight budget, hardtails are definitely the way to go. You can get a really good performing bike for under $1,000, since you don’t have a lot of money tied up in rear suspension components. And when you add the larger, smooth riding 29 inch wheels to the equation, you may find it’s all the suspension you need depending on what trails you ride. At $785, the Alpine Trail appears to be a good value with enough performance to tackle most any trail. Lester got the Alpine Trail out for a loop, and agreed with my assessment. While the cheaper componentry was not as nice as what he was used to on his own bike, he thought the ride was pretty good and that it was a good value for the money.

Ryan on the Mount Vision 5.8

I’ve never had much time on a high-end, light weight full suspension bike, so I opted to give the Mount Vision 5.8, a try. At first glance, the most noticeable aspect of the Mount Vision is the shape of the frame. Marin’s hydroforming process allows them to get creative with the frame tubing, creating a frame that is stronger where it needs to be, and lighter or with more flex in the spots that don’t need the extra strength. All bikes in the Mount Vision series have 120mm of suspension travel (just under 5 inches), which seems to be the sweet spot for all around trail riding. Dan from Marin bikes filled me in on the technology of the Mount Vision, really focusing on the Quad Link rear suspension. You’ll notice from the photos below, that all the pivot points are contained within the front triangle. This seems like a pretty good idea to me, as it creates a stronger rear end with less flex, and helps keep your bearings out of the water and muck. It should be a system with great durability. Dan also mentioned that the pivot design was progressive; initially plush for small bumps, and then firming up further into the travel. While some suspension systems follow an arc up and back through the travel, the Quad Link brings the rear wheel back towards the center as the wheel goes further into the travel. Dan said the Quad Link design assists the rear shock, rather than totally relying on fancy shock valving for its performance.

Mount Vision 5.8

Dan and I went out for a spin on the singletrack, so I got to see how all this technology worked out on the trail. We did a short loop with a variety of terrain, so I was able to get a feel for what the bike was about. We started off our ride by heading up the canyon on a series of climbing switchbacks. Pedal induced suspension bob was not noticeable, but the rear suspension kept the ride comfortable. There are a couple rocky sections on the climb we did, and the rear wheel hooked up great. This is one area that full suspension bikes excel in; maintaining traction in a difficult climb while under full pedal power. Hardtails take a bit more finesse and body English in these situations to maintain traction.

Quad Link 120mm Suspension System

The descent was a lot less smooth than the climb, and was a better place to test the personality of the Mount Vision. We rode down the Ash Canyon Creek Trail, a tight single track that has lots of turns, rock steps, bridges, log crossings, and fast rolling bumps along its course. The Fox fork and Quad Link rear suspension really soaked up the bumps and absorbed the deflective energy from the trail obstacles. The bike seemed stuck to the ground in many of the places I normally catch air on with my hardtail and rigid bikes. Preloading the suspension a bit before the jumps would probably be necessary to get back the lost air. Also noticeable was the fantastic traction while braking. This was in part due to the aggressive WTB Moto Raptor tires equipped on the bike, but also because of the suspension design. Some full suspension designs lock up the rear suspension under heavy braking, but the Quad Link still felt fully active, even over the dusty cobblestones of the rock chute along the Creek Trail. This is one area where my hardtail’s rear end starts skipping and I lose a little control. Geometry of the bike seemed to be a good mix of stability and quick handling.

The retail price of $3,465.00 puts the Mount Vision 5.8 at the upper end of the price range for the series. The more affordable Mount Vision 5.6 retails for $2,100, but is still packed with performance. Although my time was short on this bike, I felt this would be a great machine for someone who was looking for that one bike to do it all. Light enough for fast XC riding, but with enough suspension performance to tackle a wide variety of trail conditions.

Thank you, Bike Habitat!

It was great to get out and ride some different bikes, but if you weren’t out riding, there was plenty to eat and drink at base camp courtesy of the Bike Habitat. Denis and Viola had the Bike Habitat chuck wagon going, so there was BBQ, chili, Sierra Nevada brews, and other snacks to enjoy between rides. Thank you to Bike Habitat and Marin Bikes for putting on such a fun event!

If you’re interested in getting a closer look at a Marin bicycle, head down to the Bike Habitat, located next to Best Buy just south of Carson City.

Titec H-Bar and J-Bar Review – First Impressions

Posted on June 10, 2010 by Jeff Moser

BikeCarson.com recently received the Titec J-Bar and the H-Bar for demo and review. Both of these handlebars are quite unconventional, the most notable attributes being the radical rearward sweep and the extensions off the front of the bars. While standard mountain bike bars really only have one hand position, the Titecs offer multiple hand positions like you have on a road bike bar. Having tried and become a fan of alternate bend bars such as the Mary Bars by On One, I was eager to get the H-Bar and J-Bar mounted up for some riding!

J-Bar (top) and H-Bar (bottom) Out of the Box

THE DESIGN

While these bars are made by Titec, they are actually a design patented by Jeff Jones. Jeff Jones has created some very unique designs, and calls hims self a cyclist committed to the non-suspended bicycle. There’s an interesting analysis of the design and features of these bars over on the JonesBikes.com website, but here are the main points:

Better handling and power output.
More comfortable and ergonomic.
Multiple hand positions with up to five inches of ‘rear to front’ hand position range.
All this translates into a handlebar you can ride all day.

One of the advantages of a swept back bar is that you can get a lot of leverage without adding too much width. At 26 inches wide (660 mm), the bars feel lined up with your shoulders. But if you measure the length of metal tubing from end to end, it measures 30 inches long! You can really put the power to the pedals on standing climbs when your hands are in the outermost position, something very important on a single speed. Even when your hands are further up the bar in the braking position, you still get a 27 inch long bar that is only about 24 inches wide.

H-Bar out on the trail

OUT OF THE BOX

The H and J Bar are both similar in construction material, sweep, width and color. Both bars will appeal to the single speed crowd, but can be mounted with shifters with special considerations (more on this later). The differences are that the H-Bar is a riser bar with 1.5″ of rise and a 25.4mm stem clamp area, while the J-Bar is a flat bar (no rise) with an oversized 31.8mm stem clamp area. Both sets of bars are over 400 grams, so there is a weight penalty for the added functionality. While neither bar is wheel size specific, I chose to mount the riser bar on my 26″ wheeled single speed, and the flat bar on my 29er single speed. 29ers already have a pretty tall front end, so additional rise is not always desirable.

H-Bar, Front View

H-Bar Statistics

Material: 6061-T6 Aluminum Drawn & butted tapered welded tubing
Width: 660mm (26 inches)
Clamp: 25.4mm
Rise: 1.5”
Sweep: 45° sweep on outside grip extensions
Color: Anodized matte Black
Weight: 425 grams on my scale (five grams less than advertised)
MSRP: $90.00

Multiple hand positions for different riding situations

J-Bar Statistics

Material: 6061-T6 Drawn & butted tapered welded tubing
Width: 660mm (26 inches)
Clamp: 31.8mm
Rise: 0mm (No Rise)
Sweep: 45° sweep on outside grip extensions
Color: Anodized matte Black
Weight: 440 grams on my scale (40 grams heavier than advertised)
MSRP: $90.00

J-Bar with cork grips and bar tape

SETUP

Titec provided me with the cork grips, and I took the bikes out before getting a chance to purchase the bar tape to finish the bars. It quickly became evident that bar tape is an essential part of the setup, as access to the brakes was difficult without it. Bar tape combined with the cork grips creates a long seamless grip area that is easy to move your hand around to all the different positions. I was able to complete both sets of bars with just one box of bar tape.

J-Bar, out in the city

As I mentioned before, both of these bars will appeal more to single speeders. This is not to say you can’t run shifters with them though. You just need to be selective of which shifters you use. Although standard Shimano or SRAM shifters slip easily onto the front extensions of the bars, it would not be easy to reach the under-the-bar thumb levers at the angle they would be mounted. Jeff Jones suggests using the Shimano dual controls (brake/shifter combo that works like a modern road bike control) or Paul Thumbies. Still, a top-of-the bar shifter like the Thumbies would probably screw up one of the best hand positions on the bar.

I setup the bars so the top is pretty much parallel with the top tube. This position has worked out well, and I haven’t adjusted it. My brake levers are angled pretty far down, as this is where your fingers are in the braking position.

Riding a switchback with the J-Bar

OUT ON THE TRAIL

I’ve had the J-Bar and H-Bar out on the trail several times now. Before mounting the bars, I was surprised that the Titecs have even more sweep than my On One Mary bars (the Marys have about 40 degrees of sweep), but climbing felt very natural from the very beginning. It did however, take a couple rides to get totally comfortable while descending as I explored all the hand positions on the bars. After only a few days though, I started to really love the bars, and I think it would be hard to go back. In fact, I’ve even found myself clearing technical sections of trail that I’ve never been able to do before without putting a foot down. The biggest shocker during the test period was riding a bike equipped with a standard 9 degree sweep riser bar after being on Titecs exclusively for several days. The straight bars just felt wrong!

Since I also use my bikes as my primary mode of transportation, I am pleased that the Titecs also work great for riding in the city. Getting back on the bars shifts your body more upright and gives you a better view of traffic. Leaning into the bars in forward positions helps get you out of the wind.

J-Bar, Front View

Over the next few weeks, I plan to put the H-Bar and J-Bar through more testing, analyzing climbing, turning, switchbacks, technical sections, and descending. I also want get them out for a multi-hour ride to test comfort over a long period of time. Mounting lights to my previous set of swept back bars was problematic, so this is another area I’d like to test. Stay tuned for the full performance review in a few weeks!

Disclaimer as required by the FTC: This product was given to BikeCarson.com at no charge for test and review. We were not paid or bribed to do this review, and will provide our honest and personal views throughout the entire process.

Endura MT500 Overshoes Review

Posted on January 29, 2010 by Jeff Moser

A common complaint among winter cyclists is cold feet. Most cycling shoes are designed for fair weather, with copious amounts of venting for maximum ventilation to dissipate all that extra heat. Unfortunately, these qualities are not what you need in a winter shoe. Thankfully, many companies have come out with various forms of overshoes, sometimes called shoe covers or booties.

Endura MT500 Overshoe

SPECIFICATIONS

Endura, a company based out of Livingston, Scotland, has become the largest brand of cycle clothing in the UK, and are known for their rugged and functional products. These are definitely two words I’d use to describe Endura’s MT500 Overshoes. These overshoes nearly convert your summer cycling shoes into a winter boot.

Here are the specs from the website:

Tough Nylon faced Neoprene upper
Rear zip with snap-down puller and Velcro heel tab to ensure snug fit
Molded rubber toe cap with ridged/grooved underside to help when climbing steep and/or muddy slopes
Neoprene meets behind the zip to improve water tightness
Welded center seam for smooth finish and improved water protection
Hard wearing Kevlar faced base and Kevlar stitching
Reflective logo and zip panels at rear
Available In Sizes: S, M, L, XL
Country of Origin: China
Price: About $50 MSRP
Product website: www.endura.co.uk/

Keep your feet warm and dry in the winter conditions

I’ve been using the MT500′s since the end of December, and they’ve been a big improvement over my previous overshoes, the All Terrain Booties from Gator Sports. While my old ATB’s are constructed from a respectable slab of neoprene, the front would constantly slip off the toe of the shoe. I’d often look down to see my shoes exposed and covered in snow, and realize why my toes were getting so cold. Winter riding in all terrain conditions requires you to frequently put your foot down, and even walk your bike on occasion. Overshoes that slip off easily defeat the purpose.

The MT500′s stay in place even when walking through snow

The Endura MT500 Overshoes almost completely cover your shoe, and they do not slip off. Additionally, the overshoe has a rubber toe cap and grooved underside like the sole of a rubber boot. This additional material on the bottom not only keeps the overshoe in place, but also creates a decent walking surface, and further blocks cold air, rain, and snow from entering the shoe. I really notice the wind chill reduction on high speed descents. The rest of the underside is made of a stretchy Kevlar mesh that you can stretch around to expose your clipless pedal cleat and shoe heal.

Another nice feature of the MT500 Overshoes is the Velcro closure strap that ensures a snug fit around your ankle. Whether your cycling pants go over the shoe covers or under them, you’ll be able to keep the cold air out.

Stitching Wear

SUMMARY

After about a month of use through some harsh conditions, some of the stitching around the bottom cleat and heal holes has worn away. Not a lot, but it’s going to have to be restitched soon to prevent further degradation. Even though there is a rubber toe area, most of the wear is directed to the mesh area on the ball of the foot. The stretch Kevlar fabric has held up remarkably well though, considering it has been walked on considerably.

The Endura MT500 Overshoes are the best shoe covers that I have tried or seen. The overbuilt rubber boot front end and mesh underside are what really set these apart from similar products on the market. The overshoes stay put, even after lengthy treks in the snow. This additional protection on the bottom of the over shoe keeps your feet warmer by creating a barrier from the winter wind, snow, and muck. I’ve ridden into places that ended up being a couple mile hike out, and the MT500′s stayed put and made walking easy.

Even though the MT500 Overshoes are shoe-like, they are not a shoe replacement due to durability issues. They are not designed for extended walking, and a little snow still finds its way up under the shoe cover. I still prefer my flat pedals and winter hiking boots for the coldest days and outings that may including a lot of walking, but for the cold days when you want the efficiency and stability of a clipless pedal, and will most likely have to trudge through the occasional patch of snow and mud, the Endura MT500 Overshoes will keep your feet dry and warm. A top-notch product.

Kona Dew FS Review

Posted on January 10, 2010 by Jeff Moser

The demand for the types of bicycles we need has shifted. More and more people are using bicycles for everyday tasks, and not just for weekend recreation. Due to the high cost of automobile ownership and increasing traffic congestion, we’ve begun to rediscover that the car is not always the best way to handle shorter trips. The bicycle industry has responded to these changing demands, and now there is a wide variety of models available for those who are looking for comfortable, practical bicycles for commuting and utility purposes.

2010 Kona Dew FS

Kona Bicycles has a lot of new and exciting models lined up for 2010 that will appeal to the urban cyclist. The Kona Dew line is designed with the urban commuter in mind, and is offered in a wide range of models to suit just about anyone’s needs. You can now get a basic Kona Dew for just over $400, an exotic scandium/carbon Dew for $2,500, and something just about anywhere in between these two extremes. According to the Kona website, “We started making Dews because we wanted a commuter bike that shredded street like our mountain bikes do trail.”

New curving top tube for 2010

Courtesy of Kona Bikes, Bike Carson received a 2010 Kona Dew FS for test and review back in November. During the test period, I’ve had ample opportunities to get the bike out around town for commuting, errands, and even a little higher speed recreational riding to see what the bike is all about.

The Dew FS model is for the rider that is looking for additional comfort without sacrificing too much efficiency and performance. The FS designation is for “Front Suspension”, and the FS is the only Dew of the line to include a suspension fork. And thanks to an all new frame design for 2010, the FS also has the most upright riding position of the Dew line. Further smoothing out the ride on the FS is a suspension seatpost.

NOTABLE SPECIFICATIONS

Frame: Kona 7005 Aluminum Butted, Curved Top Tube, Rack and Fender Mounts.
Internal Headset: Headset bearings located inside the head tube, rather than external cups pressed into the top and bottom
Fork: Suntour SF10-NCX-D LO Lite with 63mm (2.5″) of suspension travel and an adjustable compression/lockout lever.
Brakes: Shimano 486 Hydraulic Disc with 6″ rotors. Compact rear design.
Handlebar: Kona XC/BC Riser (Oversized 31.8mm clamp area, 620mm (24.5″) wide, minimal sweep)
Wheels and Tires: 700C wheels with 70psi Continental CountryRide 700x37C tires
Colors Available: Metallic Dark Red or Matte Black
Frame Sizes Available: 45cm, 49cm, 52cm, 54cm, 56cm (tested in this review), 58cm, 60cm, 62cm.
Price: $799 USD

More specs can be found on the Kona site.

Geometry Comparison

GEOMETRY

The most visible aspect of the Dew FS geometry is the curved top tube. The FS’s frame has been redesigned for 2010 with a curved top tube that allows for a tall front end, while at the same time providing a lot of stand over clearance. It’s easy to swing a leg over the top tube while wearing your regular street or work pants.

While the Dew FS looks and feels like it may have a short wheelbase, it’s really just the geometry that brings the controls closer to the rider. The wheelbase is pretty much the same length as the other Dew models, and is slightly longer than that of my Trek road bike. Where the Dew FS deviates the most from the rest of the Dew line is the more laid back seat tube angle at 72.5 degrees, and the tall, relaxed head tube with a 70.5 degree angle. These angles put the rider more upright, and bring the seat further behind the pedals. The slacker head tube angle also slightly slows down the steering for a less twitchy front end.

The Dew FS Out and About

THE RIDE

Although the Dew FS is not a lightweight racer at 30 pounds, it does move along smoothly, quickly, and efficiently. Friends and co-workers that I let ride the bike were surprised at how effortlessly the bike moved along. The suspension fork and seat post combined with the wide urban tires do a great job of eliminating jolts from cracks in the road, pot holes, and sidewalk curbs.

The wide 70psi 700x37C tires are very stable over variable urban terrain. Where a skinny 23C road tire keeps you constantly scanning the road for pebbles and cracks, the Dew’s wider tires let you relax and focus your attention elsewhere. There is also enough tread on the tires for confidence on changing road conditions, easily handling neglected pavement, packed dirt roads, and the sanded streets of winter.

The upright riding position is comfortable on your back and neck, and you have great visibility of traffic and other things that are going on around you. It really makes you realize how much of your peripheral vision is lost when riding a leaned over road or mountain bike.

Urban Tires – Fast rolling, yet wide and comfortable

SUSPENSION

The Dew is equipped with a Suntour front suspension fork with 63mm (2.5″) of suspension travel. For adjustability and tuning, there is a spring pre-load dial on the left fork leg, and an adjustable compression rate/lockout lever on the right fork leg. The pre-load dial is used to set the amount of suspension sag for your body weight, and the lockout lever is used to tune the fork’s performance.

I thought that locking out the fork might bring more pedaling efficiency, but this was not the case. Since the rider’s weight is farther back on the Dew FS due to the upright riding position, pedaling bob in the front suspension was not an issue. I like to lockout the front fork of my mountain bike when riding through town, but I thought the Dew FS actually felt better with the front suspension active. The only time I felt the lockout helped was during standing sprints and climbs. The lockout lever is not merely an on/off switch either. You can tune the compression rate (how quickly the fork compresses when hitting a bump) from wide open to a much stiffer feel as you get closer to full lockout. Additionally, the lockout lever is easy to get to quickly while riding or at a standing stop.

It is important for a commuter bike to have the option of accepting full fenders. The Suntour suspension fork comes with fender mounts, and aftermarket companies like Planet Bike have fenders available that mount to this style of fork that don’t interfere with suspension or disc brake action.

Suspension fork with on-the-fly lock-out and adjustable compression

Further suspension is provided by the telescopic seatpost. I never did fine tune the seatpost suspension for my body weight, but I did adjust it to see how it worked. To adjust the pre-load on the seatpost suspension spring, you must loosen the seatpost clamp, and pull the seatpost out of the frame. On the underside of the seatpost is an adjuster that screws into the seatpost by means of an Allen wrench. Simply turn the adjuster in to get more pre-load. The seatpost clamp is a bolt on design, lessening the chance that your seat and post will be swiped while locked to the rack.

Tunable Suspension Seatpost

PARTS AND OTHER DETAILS

The Kona Dew FS is fitted with a mid-grade selection of parts. There are no high-end boutique parts on the FS, but there isn’t any low end junk either. It’s a good mix of parts that does the job well and reliably. Since urban bikes aren’t subjected to the higher stresses and conditions of mountain and road biking, you can get away with less. I have a similar parts spec on my Kona Ute, and they’ve worked great for the intended use with no hassles. Another benefit of the modest parts spec on the Dew FS is that nothing will scream, “STEAL ME!” when parked at the bike rack. Bonus: The Dew FS comes with a bell! Bells are great for getting the attention of friends while you’re out riding, and for politely alerting pedestrians and other cyclists of your presence.

New compact rear disc design does not interfere with rear rack and fender mounting

Brakes – I love disc brakes for all weather riding, and the hydraulic Shimanos on the Dew FS work great. They’re powerful but smooth, and stop you instantly in surprise traffic situations. New for 2010, the rear disc is mounted inside the rear triangle, clearing the way for easy rack and fender mounting. As is the case with many innovations though, a plus in one area may lead to a negative in another. The rear brake hose goes right over the bottom bracket. While I never had problems during the test period, I think it would be a good idea to keep an eye on this area. The brake hose might wander down onto a sharp edge of the bottom bracket or rub against a rotating crank arm. It didn’t look dangerous, but friction could lead to premature hose wear if left unchecked. A small zip-tie near the bottom bracket might be all that it takes to prevent the brake hose from wandering.

Wheels and Tires – The big 700C wheels roll well and keep their momentum, and the wide 700x37C tires further contribute to the smooth ride. The Continental CountryRide tires have a decent amount of traction for multi-surface riding. The tires wouldn’t be fantastic for loose dirt and sand, but would handle packed dirt roads easily. The wide, 70 psi tires don’t deflect off street debris easily, allowing the rider to concentrate on other aspects of the ride. There is also a lot of clearance on the frame and fork should you want to experiment with larger tires.

Rear Brake Hose Routing

Gearing – Front chain rings with sizes 48/36/26, and a 9 speed cassette with cogs ranging from 11-32 teeth give the rider a wide range of gears to choose from whether ascending a steep climb, or bombing a fast downhill.

Handlebars and Stem – The Dew FS is equipped with 620mm (24.5″) wide handlebars, with an oversized 31.8mm clamp area and stem to reduce bar flex. The bars have very little sweep, and when combined with the tall front end, it almost feels like you’re riding a scooter. The steering tube is cut long and comes with plenty of spacers, allowing for plenty of options for handlebar height. Personally, the handlebars are too straight for my taste, and I would prefer a bar with more sweep. Swept back bars are more comfortable on the wrists in my opinion, and since the Dew FS is designed for comfort, the straight bars may not be the best choice. Switching bars is easy though, but keep in mind that you may be looking at a stem replacement too, as the 31.8mm stem may limit your choices of commuter bars. I also found that my old headlight clamp doesn’t work with the newer oversized handlebar. This shouldn’t be an issue if you have a newer light though.

Handsome head badge and paint job

STYLING

Many co-workers that walked by my office cubicle stopped to remark on the Dew FS. Everyone seems to be in agreement that the metallic dark red paint looks great, and I believe this is what got their initial attention. Adding to the nice paint job though are a handsome Kona head badge, over-sized curved aluminum frame tubing, and color complimenting black componentry. It’s a bike that looks sharp with your office clothes, and will look good in your office cubicle as well as parked out in front of the coffee shop.

The Kona Dew FS looks sharp around town

SUMMARY

The 2010 Kona Dew FS is an exceptional blend of efficiency, utility, style, and comfort. The FS’s design and parts selection allows for swift, efficient, and reliable transportation. With the addition of a rear rack and panniers you can add a lot of utility for errands and commuting. Attractive frame tubing, paint, and other details give the bike high style points, and compliment your work or street clothes well. The suspension, upright riding position, and wide tires of the FS make for a comfortable and safe ride. For sportier riding or longer endurance rides, I would probably pick a lighter model from the Kona Dew line. But for comfortable commuting and errands around town, the Dew FS is hard to beat. Kona did a good job with the Dew FS and it rounds out the Dew line nicely.

Special Thanks: BikeCarson.com would like to thank Carson City’s local Kona dealer Bike Habitat for bicycle delivery and assembly, Keith Cozzens at Verde PR & Consulting for arranging the test, and Kona Bicycles for making great bikes!

Disclaimer: This product was loaned to BikeCarson.com at no charge for test and review. We were not paid or bribed to do this review, and have provided our honest and personal views throughout the entire process.

WTB Wolverine 29″ Review – First Impressions

Posted on November 24, 2009 by Jeff Moser

Bike Carson just received a set of the all-new 2010 Wolverine 29×2.2″ tires from Wilderness Trail Bikes for test and review! Previously, the Wolverine mountain bike tire has only been available in a 26″ size, but due to increased demand from the growing 29er community, they have now been made available in a larger 29″ version as well.

The Wolverine is advertised as having a tread pattern that works well in a wide variety of conditions. As we head into Winter here in Northern Nevada, we’re certainly going to have a large assortment of conditions to ride in for the next several months. We will have the perfect testing grounds for the new Wolverine.

WTB Wolverine 29×2.2″ Race, 60tpi casing, Aramid folding bead

The 29″ Wolverine is a fairly high volume tire with moderately spaced knobs. The knobs are small and numerous, and provide many biting edges. The center knobs are of medium height, but become much more aggressive toward the edges of the tires. Additionally, there are micro knobbies between the spaces of the larger knobs. It appears that the Wolverine will have a good balance of low rolling resistance, traction, and mud shedding capability.

Moderately spaced tread pattern with large side knobs

I’ve been using the big volume WTB Weirwolf LT 29×2.55″ as a front tire on my single speed for over a year now. While I’ve really enjoyed this large plush tire, the low profile side knobbies tend to drift in our Eastern Sierra sandy conditions. Not much mind you, but enough for me to want a tad more bite. It’s my hope that the Wolverine will provide that extra turning traction I’m looking for, without sacrificing too much suspension.

The big 2.2″ casing feels plush enough for rigid fork use

Before mounting the tires, I put them on my scale. One tire weighed in at 805 grams, the other 840 grams. The WTB website originally advertised the tire as being 700 grams, so I asked WTB about this. They say they’ve been seeing the weights come in quite a bit heavier than the pre-production samples, and they’ve since updated the website to advertise the tire as 800 grams. Still, there is hope that they may find why the variation occurred and correct it. Especially if the weight of the 26″ version is as light as advertised at 560 grams.

Even though the tire was a bit heavier than I had hoped for, I don’t mind pedaling a heavier tire if there’s a pay-off in performance. If you’re looking for big volume, lots of traction, and light weight, you probably won’t find it all in one tire. You generally have to pick two of these qualities, and decide which remaining quality you’ll need the least of. It should be noted though, that tires with low rolling resistance tend to feel lighter than tires with big open tread patterns. The moderately spaced knobbies of the Wolverine should allow the tire to roll easily, and help cancel out some of the additional weight.

Wolverines on the Trail

Specifications

Dimensions: 29×2.2″ – 54/52
WTB’s fast-rolling, long lasting 60a durometer rubber
Moderately spaced tread pattern
Weight saving folding Aramid Bead
60 Threads Per Inch (TPI) casing
Weight: Test tires weighed in at 805 grams and 840 grams.
Here’s a video from WTB that has further information about the tire.

Putting the Wolverine’s Traction to the Test

First Impressions

I’m a big fan of WTB tires. I’ve found their long-wearing rubber compound to be a good value, and have enjoyed WTB’s selection of big volume tires that are still light enough for trail riding. I’ve only had a couple days on the Wolverines so far, but I’ve had the opportunity to ride them in a wide variety of conditions. In under 30 miles, I’ve ridden them on pavement, sand, hardpack, mud, snow, and ice! The results have been very pleasing, and I’ve had a big smile on my face trying to see how far I can lean the bike over in the turns. The Wolverines roll fast, and seem to hook up well whether climbing, turning, or descending. Still, more testing must be done…

Stay Tuned for the Full Bike Carson Crew Test

The next step will be for the Bike Carson crew to take the 29″ Wolverines out for full testing on a variety of different bikes and terrain. The tires will be put to the test on rigid single speeds, geared hardtails, and full suspension bikes. The local Fall/Winter riding conditions will expose the tires to a wide variety of terrain. They’ll be ridden in the decomposed granite, mud, and snow of the Eastern Sierras, and the hardpack clay and rocks in the deserts to the east. Near the end of the testing, we’ll see how the Wolverine works when converted to tubeless. Stay tuned for the full results.

Obligatory disclaimer as required by the FTC: This product was given to BikeCarson.com at no charge for test and review. We were not paid or bribed to do this review, and will provide our honest and personal views throughout the entire process.

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