Wrights Bicycle Saddle

Posted on September 3, 2010 by Jeff Moser

A few years ago, my dad gave me a box of miscellaneous bike parts that he had cleaned out of his garage. I didn’t consider them much until recently when I started getting curious about classic leather saddles. I went through the box of parts, remembering the old leather saddle in there, and was surprised to find a Wrights saddle looked almost identical to a Brooks.

Wrights Saddle

My dad says this Wrights saddle came on a 10 speed Dawes that he purchased back in 1969, and it even made a ride around Lake Tahoe in the same time period. He also mentioned he didn’t have fond memories of the saddle, and this may be why it ended up off the bike. I hear they do have a lengthy break-in period.

Side Logo Close-Up

I couldn’t find much information on the Wrights company, mostly just information about Wrights being merged with Brooks Saddles in the early 1960s. I read over on the Wrights Flickr Group that “in 1962, The ‘Wright Saddle Company Ltd’ of Birmingham England was one of the companies taken over by Brooks. This was after Tube Investments, the parent company of Brooks and Wrights merged the two companies in 1962. Brooks became the dominant partner and made slightly cheaper versions of their saddles under the Wrights name. Wrights had a factory at Dale Road, Selly Oak, Birmingham until the merger, when TI moved production to Downing Street to be made alongside Brooks.”

Underneath

I haven’t tried the saddle out yet, although I’d like to. I tried to mount it to one of my modern seat posts, and the rails didn’t quite line up. I’m not sure if there was a different standard at this time, or if I just need to bend and force the rails into the clamp. It’s not far off from fitting. Anyone know the answer to this?

Top View

Although I didn’t find too much information about Wrights, the Brooks saddle company is still going strong and has pretty well documented history on their site. This gives you a good feel for how old the bicycle industry is! From the Brooks site:

1866 - John Boultbee Brooks (1846-1921) established a works in Great Charles Street, Birmingham for the manufacture of leather strapping for horse harnesses and general leather goods.
1870 - Noting that more and more people were indulging in the new pastime of cycling, John Boultbee Brooks went over to the manufacture of bicycle saddles.
1880 - The first safety bicycle came on the scene and with it the need for more comfortable saddles. No longer were riders willing to accept that the only option open to them was to ride a piece of formed wood.
1882 - Brooks filed his first patent for a sprung bicycle saddle, the first of its kind. After which he went on to file a number of patents for bicycle saddles, motor cycle saddles and other leather goods.

Made in England

Adventures on New Belgium Bike

Posted on August 10, 2010 by Jeff Moser

Today I rode the New Belgium bike to work.

I pedaled by the woman on the porch laughing
and talking to the young mother pushing
the baby stroller down
the sidewalk.

Past the aggravated lady on the cruiser that
crashed into the chain link fence who was looking
down at her smashed wicker basket as it lay
sadly on the sidewalk in defeat.

Just beating the blind old man in
the muscle car past the driveway
before he could give me the
left hook for the 3rd time.

Alongside the big trucks pouring
the new concrete sidewalk that
borders the new asphalt in
the library parking lot.

Past the stooped over man taking
his oxygen tank out for a walk in
the morning shade of
the big trees.

Down the stairs to
the basement where
the adventure ends and
the uneventful routine begins.

Bike Chariot Racing

Posted on June 24, 2010 by Jeff Moser

Ben Hurt

With the oil volcano spewing away in the gulf, and the way the economy is going, I often wonder what things will be like a year from now. After seeing this video over on the Life Bikin’ Blog, I wondered if this was a glimpse into the future of bicycle racing in the years to come. Will team cars, color coordinated uniforms, and gentlemanly conduct give way to armored chariots, thick padded armor, and gratuitous violence? Only time will tell.

West Carson Cruiser Ride

Posted on May 18, 2010 by Jeff Moser

West Carson Cruiser Ride

Come join us Wednesday evening, May 19th for a slow ride around Carson City’s historic west side. This is a great family event, and is good for people of all ages. The pace is slow, and the route is only about 4 miles long.

When: May 19th. Sign in at 6:00 PM, ride will begin after everyone is signed in.
Where: Meet at Telegraph Square, the crossroads of Telegraph Street and Curry Street.
What: 4 mile Slow Cruise around Carson City’s historical west side.
Bring your helmet!
Bonus: Join us afterward for a beer at the Old Globe Saloon!

Roselyn’s Hiawatha Princess

Posted on May 5, 2010 by Jeff Moser

Here’s a story I know you’ll enjoy. Imagine getting the first bike of your childhood as a birthday present. And not just a similar bike. The same bike you had 72 years ago, fully restored to its original condition. Do you think you’d be excited? Possibly overcome with joy? Jeff Resler and his wife pulled his mother’s 1938 Hiawatha Princess from storage, and decided to get it restored for her 80th birthday!

New Bike! – 1938

Jeff Resler writes:

Attached are photos of my mother’s bike when it was new and the restoration pictures. Also attached is the story behind the bike–in her own words. My wife and I gave it to her for her 80th birthday on April 15th, and she had no clue what she was getting.

Roselyn’s 1938 Hiawatha Princess

This is the same bike. It’s 72 years old, and has been in storage for probably 40 years. When my mother decided to move to Nevada about 6 years ago, we brought it along. She keeps everything. I’ve attached some pictures of the condition it was in. Luckily, the metal was pretty straight and the restoration went very well. I probably moved that bike a thousand times to get it out of my way to find things in storage before the light went on to restore it.

The Bike before Restoration

Here’s the story of the bike as told by Jeff’s mother, Roselyn:

When Dad, Mom and I took a train to Los Angeles to visit Clifford, Dad’s half brother, and Adam, Dad’s full brother, and their families, we met a young sailor, Glen on the train. He must have been l8 or 19. We started visiting as Dad had also been in the Navy. Glen asked Dad if he could take me to lunch. It was ok as what could happen to me on the train?? So we had gotten Glen’s address. He was just like a big brother to me, and I his little sister. So we would write to each other. He would send me gifts such as lockets, a pretty orchid-colored slack outfit from Hawaii, a Teepee etc. Mom, in turn, would send him cookies or some other “care packages”.

Roselyn reunited with her princess – 2010

I wanted a bicycle (I must have been eight or nine years old) and my folks said “no”. So I wrote to Glen, feeling sorry for myself, telling him I wanted a bicycle and I couldn’t have one. Well. in his next letter he sent me a check so I could buy my bicycle. I can still see the astounded look on Dad’s face!!! To make a long story short….what could Mom and Dad say….l got my Hiawatha Princess. (Actually, I think Dad sent Glen a check back for the amount)

Hiawatha Princess fully restored

Happy Birthday, Roselyn!

Kona Dew FS Review

Posted on January 10, 2010 by Jeff Moser

The demand for the types of bicycles we need has shifted. More and more people are using bicycles for everyday tasks, and not just for weekend recreation. Due to the high cost of automobile ownership and increasing traffic congestion, we’ve begun to rediscover that the car is not always the best way to handle shorter trips. The bicycle industry has responded to these changing demands, and now there is a wide variety of models available for those who are looking for comfortable, practical bicycles for commuting and utility purposes.

2010 Kona Dew FS

Kona Bicycles has a lot of new and exciting models lined up for 2010 that will appeal to the urban cyclist. The Kona Dew line is designed with the urban commuter in mind, and is offered in a wide range of models to suit just about anyone’s needs. You can now get a basic Kona Dew for just over $400, an exotic scandium/carbon Dew for $2,500, and something just about anywhere in between these two extremes. According to the Kona website, “We started making Dews because we wanted a commuter bike that shredded street like our mountain bikes do trail.”

New curving top tube for 2010

Courtesy of Kona Bikes, Bike Carson received a 2010 Kona Dew FS for test and review back in November. During the test period, I’ve had ample opportunities to get the bike out around town for commuting, errands, and even a little higher speed recreational riding to see what the bike is all about.

The Dew FS model is for the rider that is looking for additional comfort without sacrificing too much efficiency and performance. The FS designation is for “Front Suspension”, and the FS is the only Dew of the line to include a suspension fork. And thanks to an all new frame design for 2010, the FS also has the most upright riding position of the Dew line. Further smoothing out the ride on the FS is a suspension seatpost.

NOTABLE SPECIFICATIONS

Frame: Kona 7005 Aluminum Butted, Curved Top Tube, Rack and Fender Mounts.
Internal Headset: Headset bearings located inside the head tube, rather than external cups pressed into the top and bottom
Fork: Suntour SF10-NCX-D LO Lite with 63mm (2.5″) of suspension travel and an adjustable compression/lockout lever.
Brakes: Shimano 486 Hydraulic Disc with 6″ rotors. Compact rear design.
Handlebar: Kona XC/BC Riser (Oversized 31.8mm clamp area, 620mm (24.5″) wide, minimal sweep)
Wheels and Tires: 700C wheels with 70psi Continental CountryRide 700x37C tires
Colors Available: Metallic Dark Red or Matte Black
Frame Sizes Available: 45cm, 49cm, 52cm, 54cm, 56cm (tested in this review), 58cm, 60cm, 62cm.
Price: $799 USD

More specs can be found on the Kona site.

Geometry Comparison

GEOMETRY

The most visible aspect of the Dew FS geometry is the curved top tube. The FS’s frame has been redesigned for 2010 with a curved top tube that allows for a tall front end, while at the same time providing a lot of stand over clearance. It’s easy to swing a leg over the top tube while wearing your regular street or work pants.

While the Dew FS looks and feels like it may have a short wheelbase, it’s really just the geometry that brings the controls closer to the rider. The wheelbase is pretty much the same length as the other Dew models, and is slightly longer than that of my Trek road bike. Where the Dew FS deviates the most from the rest of the Dew line is the more laid back seat tube angle at 72.5 degrees, and the tall, relaxed head tube with a 70.5 degree angle. These angles put the rider more upright, and bring the seat further behind the pedals. The slacker head tube angle also slightly slows down the steering for a less twitchy front end.

The Dew FS Out and About

THE RIDE

Although the Dew FS is not a lightweight racer at 30 pounds, it does move along smoothly, quickly, and efficiently. Friends and co-workers that I let ride the bike were surprised at how effortlessly the bike moved along. The suspension fork and seat post combined with the wide urban tires do a great job of eliminating jolts from cracks in the road, pot holes, and sidewalk curbs.

The wide 70psi 700x37C tires are very stable over variable urban terrain. Where a skinny 23C road tire keeps you constantly scanning the road for pebbles and cracks, the Dew’s wider tires let you relax and focus your attention elsewhere. There is also enough tread on the tires for confidence on changing road conditions, easily handling neglected pavement, packed dirt roads, and the sanded streets of winter.

The upright riding position is comfortable on your back and neck, and you have great visibility of traffic and other things that are going on around you. It really makes you realize how much of your peripheral vision is lost when riding a leaned over road or mountain bike.

Urban Tires – Fast rolling, yet wide and comfortable

SUSPENSION

The Dew is equipped with a Suntour front suspension fork with 63mm (2.5″) of suspension travel. For adjustability and tuning, there is a spring pre-load dial on the left fork leg, and an adjustable compression rate/lockout lever on the right fork leg. The pre-load dial is used to set the amount of suspension sag for your body weight, and the lockout lever is used to tune the fork’s performance.

I thought that locking out the fork might bring more pedaling efficiency, but this was not the case. Since the rider’s weight is farther back on the Dew FS due to the upright riding position, pedaling bob in the front suspension was not an issue. I like to lockout the front fork of my mountain bike when riding through town, but I thought the Dew FS actually felt better with the front suspension active. The only time I felt the lockout helped was during standing sprints and climbs. The lockout lever is not merely an on/off switch either. You can tune the compression rate (how quickly the fork compresses when hitting a bump) from wide open to a much stiffer feel as you get closer to full lockout. Additionally, the lockout lever is easy to get to quickly while riding or at a standing stop.

It is important for a commuter bike to have the option of accepting full fenders. The Suntour suspension fork comes with fender mounts, and aftermarket companies like Planet Bike have fenders available that mount to this style of fork that don’t interfere with suspension or disc brake action.

Suspension fork with on-the-fly lock-out and adjustable compression

Further suspension is provided by the telescopic seatpost. I never did fine tune the seatpost suspension for my body weight, but I did adjust it to see how it worked. To adjust the pre-load on the seatpost suspension spring, you must loosen the seatpost clamp, and pull the seatpost out of the frame. On the underside of the seatpost is an adjuster that screws into the seatpost by means of an Allen wrench. Simply turn the adjuster in to get more pre-load. The seatpost clamp is a bolt on design, lessening the chance that your seat and post will be swiped while locked to the rack.

Tunable Suspension Seatpost

PARTS AND OTHER DETAILS

The Kona Dew FS is fitted with a mid-grade selection of parts. There are no high-end boutique parts on the FS, but there isn’t any low end junk either. It’s a good mix of parts that does the job well and reliably. Since urban bikes aren’t subjected to the higher stresses and conditions of mountain and road biking, you can get away with less. I have a similar parts spec on my Kona Ute, and they’ve worked great for the intended use with no hassles. Another benefit of the modest parts spec on the Dew FS is that nothing will scream, “STEAL ME!” when parked at the bike rack. Bonus: The Dew FS comes with a bell! Bells are great for getting the attention of friends while you’re out riding, and for politely alerting pedestrians and other cyclists of your presence.

New compact rear disc design does not interfere with rear rack and fender mounting

Brakes – I love disc brakes for all weather riding, and the hydraulic Shimanos on the Dew FS work great. They’re powerful but smooth, and stop you instantly in surprise traffic situations. New for 2010, the rear disc is mounted inside the rear triangle, clearing the way for easy rack and fender mounting. As is the case with many innovations though, a plus in one area may lead to a negative in another. The rear brake hose goes right over the bottom bracket. While I never had problems during the test period, I think it would be a good idea to keep an eye on this area. The brake hose might wander down onto a sharp edge of the bottom bracket or rub against a rotating crank arm. It didn’t look dangerous, but friction could lead to premature hose wear if left unchecked. A small zip-tie near the bottom bracket might be all that it takes to prevent the brake hose from wandering.

Wheels and Tires – The big 700C wheels roll well and keep their momentum, and the wide 700x37C tires further contribute to the smooth ride. The Continental CountryRide tires have a decent amount of traction for multi-surface riding. The tires wouldn’t be fantastic for loose dirt and sand, but would handle packed dirt roads easily. The wide, 70 psi tires don’t deflect off street debris easily, allowing the rider to concentrate on other aspects of the ride. There is also a lot of clearance on the frame and fork should you want to experiment with larger tires.

Rear Brake Hose Routing

Gearing – Front chain rings with sizes 48/36/26, and a 9 speed cassette with cogs ranging from 11-32 teeth give the rider a wide range of gears to choose from whether ascending a steep climb, or bombing a fast downhill.

Handlebars and Stem – The Dew FS is equipped with 620mm (24.5″) wide handlebars, with an oversized 31.8mm clamp area and stem to reduce bar flex. The bars have very little sweep, and when combined with the tall front end, it almost feels like you’re riding a scooter. The steering tube is cut long and comes with plenty of spacers, allowing for plenty of options for handlebar height. Personally, the handlebars are too straight for my taste, and I would prefer a bar with more sweep. Swept back bars are more comfortable on the wrists in my opinion, and since the Dew FS is designed for comfort, the straight bars may not be the best choice. Switching bars is easy though, but keep in mind that you may be looking at a stem replacement too, as the 31.8mm stem may limit your choices of commuter bars. I also found that my old headlight clamp doesn’t work with the newer oversized handlebar. This shouldn’t be an issue if you have a newer light though.

Handsome head badge and paint job

STYLING

Many co-workers that walked by my office cubicle stopped to remark on the Dew FS. Everyone seems to be in agreement that the metallic dark red paint looks great, and I believe this is what got their initial attention. Adding to the nice paint job though are a handsome Kona head badge, over-sized curved aluminum frame tubing, and color complimenting black componentry. It’s a bike that looks sharp with your office clothes, and will look good in your office cubicle as well as parked out in front of the coffee shop.

The Kona Dew FS looks sharp around town

SUMMARY

The 2010 Kona Dew FS is an exceptional blend of efficiency, utility, style, and comfort. The FS’s design and parts selection allows for swift, efficient, and reliable transportation. With the addition of a rear rack and panniers you can add a lot of utility for errands and commuting. Attractive frame tubing, paint, and other details give the bike high style points, and compliment your work or street clothes well. The suspension, upright riding position, and wide tires of the FS make for a comfortable and safe ride. For sportier riding or longer endurance rides, I would probably pick a lighter model from the Kona Dew line. But for comfortable commuting and errands around town, the Dew FS is hard to beat. Kona did a good job with the Dew FS and it rounds out the Dew line nicely.

Special Thanks: BikeCarson.com would like to thank Carson City’s local Kona dealer Bike Habitat for bicycle delivery and assembly, Keith Cozzens at Verde PR & Consulting for arranging the test, and Kona Bicycles for making great bikes!

Disclaimer: This product was loaned to BikeCarson.com at no charge for test and review. We were not paid or bribed to do this review, and have provided our honest and personal views throughout the entire process.

Mountain Bike Tire Pressure

Posted on November 11, 2009 by Jeff Moser

The tire is the interface between the bike and the dirt. The tire has to roll, turn, provide traction, stop the bike, and add suspension. As little as a 5 pounds per square inch (psi) variance in tire pressure can make a big difference on how a tire will perform these duties. The following is a guide to help you determine the correct air pressure for your mountain bike tires.

Recommended Pressure on Tire Sidewall

Most mountain bikers know to read the tire sidewall to figure out the tire’s recommended tire pressure, but there are many who don’t know how to select a pressure for maximum tire performance. Most off-road tires have a pressure range specified with the minimum pressure often as much as 30 psi less than the maximum. This is quite a range to select from, and as a result, many mountain bike tires are overinflated.

Traction

An inflated, unweighted knobby tire has a round profile. You want to adjust your tire pressure so that when you put your body weight on the bike, the tire flattens out a bit where the tire contacts the dirt. If a tire is overinflated, the surface area of tire in contact the ground in minimized and traction is reduced. This effect is amplified further when turning, a moment when you want maximum traction. Low rolling resistance may be the goal when riding on the asphalt, but traction is our biggest battle when riding a mountain bike. It’s also important to remember that the more knobbies you have in contact with the dirt, the better your braking will be.

Where the Rubber meets the Dirt

Suspension

When we think of mountain bike suspension, we instantly think of the expensive and elaborate hydraulic telescoping devices that are today’s forks and rear frame triangles. But good suspension begins at the tires. A properly inflated tire will better absorb and conform to trail irregularities, and help keep your wheels from deflecting off rocks and roots.

How Low Can you Go?

Here are some guidelines for getting the most traction and suspension from your tires:

The minimum pressure recommendation on the sidewall is a good starting point for most mountain bike tires. Ride, test, and adjust to suit your tastes and requirements.
In some cases, you can actually run less pressure than the minimum listed on the sidewall, and get better performance. This is especially true for front tires. I run my 2.5″ wide front tire at 22-25 psi, even though the recommended minimum is 35.
When experimenting with pressures below the recommended minimum, start with small increments of about 2 psi, and work your way down.
Keep an eye on how your tire interacts with the rim when running low pressure. Too low, and your tire may slip along the rim when braking, leading to a broken valve stem. You don’t want the tire so soft and squirmy that it rolls off the rim either. Keep enough air in the tires to prevent pinch flats! Again, start off with small psi changes, and see how your tires react.
Rear tires generally need more pressure than front tires. Not only is there more weight over a rear tire, we tend to wheelie over trail junk and let our rear wheel slam into the obstacle. I run my rear tire 5-7 psi greater than the front.
The fatter and/or taller the tire, the lower the pressure you can run. Although it comes with a weight penalty, you can make your ride pretty plush or float over sand with aired-down 2.2 – 2.5″ tires. You may even consider running a big aggressive front tire, but keep your rear tire fast and light.
When inflating your tires after a tire swap or flat repair, you may have to overinflate your tire first to seat the bead of the tire into the rim. Once the bead is seated, you can let air out and recheck the pressure.
The little round nut on a presta valve stem is helpful for keeping the stem in place during inflation, but take it off when complete and put it in your tool kit. If you’re running big aired-down tires, the valve stem may tear off if it can’t flex with the tube. I went through a few tubes before I figured this out!

Tire Footprint with Full Knobby Contact

Other factors that can influence tire pressure settings

Now that I’ve talked you into experimenting with lower tire pressures, keep the following in mind:

Body Weight – Heavier riders require more tire pressure.
Terrain – Rocky trails may require greater tire pressure to keep the tube from pinch-flatting, or to prevent damage to your rims.
Tire Size – Skinny race tires need more pressure; wide and tall All-Mountain tires can run with much less
Speed – The faster the impact, the more tube and rim protection you need. Consider how fast you’ll be riding and the conditions of the trail.
Tubeless Tires – Tubeless tire systems can run lower pressure without fear of pinch flats, but you still need to be wary of rim damage.

Get out there and experiment with your tire pressure! In the end you should have a tire that provides better traction and suspension, without sacrificing much rolling resistance. If you already own a pump, it could be a FREE performance upgrade.

Did I miss anything? What additional recommendations do you have?

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